Mahasthangarh: an archaeological site on the verge of destruction; artefacts being stolen

Locals breaking boundary walls to create passageways

The heritage is gradually fading due to neglect and poor maintenance. Many important structures are slowly disappearing due to a lack of regular preservation efforts. Waterlogging during the monsoon, the spread of weeds, and soil erosion have collectively placed the existence of the archaeological site under serious threat.

Mahasthangarh is one of Bangladesh’s oldest and most historically significant archaeological sites. This ancient city that bears witness to a long history is surrounded by remnants of fortress walls, temples, roads, and various architectural structures. However, that heritage is now gradually fading due to neglect and poor maintenance. Many important structures are slowly disappearing due to a lack of regular preservation efforts. Waterlogging during the monsoon, the spread of weeds, and soil erosion have collectively placed the existence of the archaeological site under serious threat.

Mahasthangarh was part of the Pundravardhana of ancient Bengal, according to historical records. Pundravardhana was one of the most prosperous regions of ancient Bengal, and its capital was Pundranagar. Over time, that Pundranagar evolved into today’s Mahasthangarh, becoming one of the most important political, economic, and cultural centres of ancient Bengal. According to historians, references to the region date back to the reign of Emperor Ashoka in the third century BCE. Later, it developed into a major administrative and commercial hub.

Located on the western bank of the Karatoya River, about 12 kilometres north of Bogura city, the ancient settlement was once the centre of a thriving civilisation. Under successive dynasties, including the Maurya, Gupta, Pala, and Sena empires, Mahasthangarh gained not only political importance but also became a remarkable example of religious coexistence and cultural development. The site, established around 2,500 years ago, was renowned as a centre of Buddhist learning. Buddhist monks from China and Tibet travelled there for education before spreading that knowledge across South and Southeast Asia.

Today, however, the picture of neglect has become more visible than its glorious history. Ancient bricks from the main boundary walls of the fortress have been removed to build roads. People now move freely through those paths, while vans and auto-rickshaws also use those regularly. Bricks taken from different parts of the site associated with the history of Pundravardhana have reportedly been used to construct more than a hundred houses.

Meanwhile, at a meeting of the law and order committee of Shibganj Upazila on May 11, State Minister for Local Government, Rural Development and Cooperatives Mir Shahe Alam said that archaeological artefacts from three museums in Bangladesh had been sent to France for an exhibition in 2007, including items from the Mahasthan Museum. However, after the first shipment, a valuable statue went missing at the airport while the second consignment was being sent, leading to the cancellation of the entire exhibition. Despite 19 years having passed since the incident, no proper investigation has yet been conducted.

Recently, a nine-member investigation committee was formed to trace the missing archaeological artefacts. Razia Sultana, custodian of the Mahasthan Museum, was appointed member secretary of the committee. Last Wednesday, the committee conducted an on-site inspection of the museum.

Ancient researcher Francis Buchanan-Hamilton documented the ruins of Pundranagar in 1808. Mahasthangarh contains numerous historically significant sites, including Khodar Pathar Bhita, Mankhali Kundu, Jiyonkup, Raja Parasuram’s Palace, Bairagir Bhita, Bandukdhara, Behula-Lakhindar’s Bridal Chamber, Hatibandha, Hatidoba Pond, Dhopapukur, Monir Ghon, Shiladevi’s Ghat, Gobinda Bhita, Kalidah Sagar or Padmadevi’s House, Gokul Medh, Bamonpara, Palashbari, Chingaspur, Ojha Dhanvantari’s House, Vasu Bihar, Bhimer Jangal, Kanjir Hari and Cheleer Dhap, among others.

One section inside Mahasthangarh is known as Bairagir Bhita, which is believed to have once been a royal palace. The famous Chinese traveller Xuanzang visited Pundranagar between 639 and 645 CE. In his travel accounts, he described the nature and lifestyle of the region at that time.

Excavations carried out over different periods have uncovered ruins of temples, stupas, wells, ancient coins, and terracotta plaques from the site. Around 1928, archaeological excavations at Bairagir Bhita revealed the remains of two temples dating to the early and late Pala periods. Continuing that effort, Bangladesh and France jointly conducted excavations at Bairagir Bhita and Loiyerkuri in 2017. After nearly two months of excavation, ancient structures and Buddhist stupas from the Maurya, Gupta, and Pala periods were discovered there.

The visually striking archaeological site, situated about five metres above the surrounding plain land, is essentially a rectangular mound. It measures 1,552 metres in length and 1,370 metres in width. The entire area is enclosed by walls approximately 25 feet high. The shrine of the legendary saint Hazrat Shah Sultan Balkhi Mahisawar (RA) is located inside the southeastern corner of the enclosure. According to legend, he defeated the Kshatriya ruler Raja Parasuram and established Islam in the region. The fortified city was also surrounded on the northwestern and southern sides by deep moats. In 1779, Alexander Cunningham identified the ruins as those of the ancient city of Pundranagar. Brahmi inscriptions discovered at the site prove that the city had been established during the Mauryan period.

In 2016, with joint funding from the Asian Development Bank and the Government of Bangladesh, some infrastructural renovation work was carried out at Mahasthangarh at a cost of approximately BDT 65 million. Facilities, including a suspension bridge, wooden overbridge, market, picnic spot, and public toilets, were built for tourists. Ancient-style bricks were even specially produced to restore parts of the fortress walls. However, due to poor maintenance, most of those facilities have now become unusable and dilapidated. As a result, the number of visitors has been declining steadily.

Arrangements have been made for tourists to travel through Mahasthangarh, including the construction of a wooden overbridge in the area known as Munir Ghon, west of Shiladevi’s Ghat, according to the Department of Archaeology. Through that bridge, tourists and visitors can enter the fortress area, visit Bairagir Bhita and Parasuram Palace, and return through the northern fortress wall. A suspension bridge has also been constructed midway over the canal flowing from Kalidah Sagar toward the Karatoya River beside Mahasthangarh. By crossing that bridge, visitors can directly enter the museum premises.

AKM Saifur Rahman, regional director of the Department of Archaeology for the Rajshahi and Rangpur divisions at the Bogura office, told Bonik Barta, “A project proposal for the overall development of Mahasthangarh is being prepared. The project includes improving tourism facilities and preserving archaeological artefacts. Proper development of Mahasthangarh could completely transform the economic landscape of the region.”

When asked why no investigation had been conducted during the 19 years since a statue went missing while being transported to France, Saifur Rahman said an investigation committee had now been formed regarding the disappearance of the statue. “They’re working on it. Further action will be taken once the report is submitted,” he added.

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